Gunpla and life in general

Master Grade

master grade kits, more specifically of the gundam variation only come in 1/100.

these type of kits are very articulate, save for the unicorn gundam ver. ka but that’s a nonissue since articulation wasn’t its main selling point even though it was an mg.

anyway, these kits have an inner skeleton and armor is snapped on top. they have a much wider range of articulation especially at the knees and ankles. the hands here are also different as they can now move the index thumb and the middle+ring+pinky are connected and move in unison but a simple modification can fix that but bewarned they tend to loosen over time. a quick fix for that is to add hardened glue to the surface of the ball joints where they connect to the hands. older kits however have a different style of mechanism regarding hands instead of ball joints. imagine a pipe with 3 digits attached to either side, another smaller pipe with 1 digit attached on either side and a thumb with a peg hole and a piece on the opposite side nearest to the pinky with a peg hole.  the 4 digits are clamped between the piece with the thumb and peg are. it’s a bit hard to imagine but i’ll have pictures up soon.

i’m sure a list would be better…

a quick recape and things to note about master grade kits:

  • complete with an inner frame with the use of polycaps, ball joints, peg+hole, clock type gears, simulated pistons/hydraulics render it visually mechanic
  • armor is snapped on top of the frame
  • relevant panel lines and aesthetic details throughout the armor’s surface give it a realistic plates of metal feel. [exclude rx-78 ver. 2.0]
  • basic articulation to create advanced dynamic poses [kneeling, squatting, splits, etc.]
  • parts range from 150 at the least and 250+
  • comes with foil/clear stickers and definitely dry transfer. HD label version come with water slide decals
  • always comes with 1/100 scale figures of pilot both seated and standing. a 1/20 figure of the pilot is sometimes included as well. there are a few exceptions where there is no pilot included, shin musha being one.
  • most pieces are color accurate with few/minor touch-up painting needed to replicate what is seen in the box art/booklet
keep in mind, older MGs are going to be generally less articulate than MGs coming out today. with that said, there’s also several versions of MGs.
  • version katoki or ver. ka are mobile suits redesigned by hajime katoki [responsible for the sentinel series of gundams]
  • version 1.0, 1.5, 2.0 – 1.0 and 1.5 don’t differ too much, perhaps more articulation in some areas and different design on the armor’s surface. – 2.0 however is complteley rebuilt for use with better technology when it comes to the molding/injection process and keep in mind it is continually improving but it’s safe to say that version 2.0 will almost always be better than 1.0 or 1.5 [keep in mind rx-78 ver. 2.0 has a very retro look so it does come down to taste and perspective as well]

in conclusion, these kits are recommended only to modelers who have the time, patience and hours of time to put love and care in building these. some intermediate knowledge to tackle complex mechanics and how pieces interact in case modification is needed/wanted. top coating is a must to protect dry transfer decal from rubbing off along with protecting paint and the kit itself from dust as it is easier to dust a top coated kit than one that isn’t as residue and other unwanted matter can negatively affect the work you’ve put in it.

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